Frequently Asked
Questions.

We cover 20+ cities across North Louisiana — Lincoln, Ouachita, Caddo, and Bossier parishes. From Ruston out to Monroe, West Monroe, Shreveport, and Bossier City, we dispatch crews with same-day availability in most cities. If you're not sure whether we serve your ZIP code, call (318) 319-0220 and we'll confirm.

We dispatch based on the type of plumbing work, plumber availability, and proximity to your home. For recurring customers, we'll note your preferred plumber in our system and route them to you when possible. Every plumber on our roster is W-2, background-checked, and Louisiana-licensed — not a subcontractor.

For true emergencies — burst pipes, sewer backups, gas leaks, water heater failures — we target on-site response within 60 to 90 minutes across Ruston and surrounding areas. Response times for outlying service areas can run 2 to 3 hours depending on traffic and crew location. We communicate ETAs in real time.

We accept all major credit cards (Visa, Mastercard, Amex, Discover), debit, ACH/check, and offer financing through GoodLeap for larger projects. Payment is collected on completion — never before — and we provide itemized invoices with flat-rate pricing noted upfront before any work begins.

Yes. All labor comes with a 1-year workmanship warranty standard, and parts carry the manufacturer's warranty (typically 5 to 10 years depending on the product). Major installs like water heaters, repipes, and sewer line replacements carry extended warranties, often up to 10 years on parts and 2 years on labor.

Call us now for an active or uncontrolled water leak, a burst or frozen pipe, sewage backing into the home, no water, a gas odor or suspected gas leak, an overflowing toilet you cannot stop, or a water heater that is actively leaking. No cooling during dangerous heat and no heat during a hard freeze can also be urgent, especially when a baby, older adult, or someone with a health condition is in the home. A slow drip, one slow drain, or a routine replacement can usually be scheduled during regular hours. If you are unsure, call and describe what is happening so our team can help you decide.

If water is actively escaping from the tank or connections, do not wait. If it is safe to reach, close the cold-water supply valve above the heater and call us. If that valve will not stop the water, use the home's main water shutoff. Keep away from wet electrical equipment, and leave the home and call the gas utility if you smell gas. A small amount of water from the temperature-and-pressure relief pipe still needs professional attention, but our team can help determine how urgently it needs service.

The location varies by home. Start where the water service enters the house, near the water meter, in a utility area, garage, crawl space, or along an exterior wall. Use the main shutoff for an uncontrolled leak or burst pipe when the fixture's local valve will not stop the water. Do not force a stuck or badly corroded valve. If you cannot find or safely operate it, call us and your water utility for guidance.

Yes when wastewater is coming up through a toilet, tub, shower, or floor drain. Stop using water throughout the home, keep people and pets away from the affected area, and call. If only one sink or shower is draining slowly and nothing is backing up, it can usually be booked as a regular drain call.

A slow drip you can contain, a running toilet you can shut off, or one slow drain can usually wait. Active flooding, sewage entering the home, no water, a gas smell, or a leak you cannot isolate should not. When the signs are unclear, call us rather than guessing. We can ask a few questions and tell you whether you need emergency dispatch or a regular appointment.

Check that the thermostat is set to COOL, the filter is not packed with dust, and the outdoor unit is running. Warm air can come from restricted airflow, a dirty coil, a failed capacitor or fan, or low refrigerant caused by a leak. If the system keeps running without cooling, turn it off and schedule a diagnosis instead of forcing the compressor to run continuously.

Yes. Switch cooling off and set the fan to ON so the coil can thaw. Do not chip the ice or keep running the system frozen, because that can damage the compressor. A dirty filter, airflow problem, dirty coil, or refrigerant leak commonly causes icing, and the system needs to be fully thawed before a technician can diagnose it correctly.

A clogged condensate drain, a damaged drain pan, or a frozen coil that is thawing are common causes. Turn the system off if water is reaching flooring, ceilings, or electrical equipment. Clear standing water if you can do so safely, then have the drain and coil checked before restarting the system.

Call urgently for a gas or rotten-egg odor, smoke, sparking, a persistent electrical-burning smell, or suspected carbon monoxide. Leave the home for a gas odor or carbon-monoxide alarm and contact the gas utility or emergency services from outside. No cooling during dangerous heat or no heat during a hard freeze can also be urgent when someone in the home is especially vulnerable. A system that is noisy or uncomfortable but still operating safely can usually be scheduled normally.

A brief cool draft at startup can be normal. Air that stays cold may point to a thermostat setting, dirty filter, ignition or flame-sensor problem, failed heating element, or a heat pump in defrost. Check the thermostat and filter, then turn the system off and call if it still does not produce heat.

A light dusty smell on the first heating cycle of the season may fade quickly. A persistent electrical-burning odor, melting-plastic smell, smoke, or sparking is not normal. Shut the system off and call. If you smell rotten eggs or suspect gas, leave the home without operating switches and contact the gas utility from outside.

Longer cycles can be normal because a heat pump delivers steadier, lower-temperature heat than a furnace. Constant auxiliary heat, a house that never reaches the set temperature, or heavy ice that does not clear can indicate a refrigerant, defrost, sensor, airflow, or thermostat problem that needs diagnosis.

Check a standard one-inch filter every month and replace it when it looks loaded, often every one to three months. Homes with pets, allergies, remodeling dust, or heavy system use may need changes more often. Thicker media filters can last longer, but the correct interval depends on the filter and system, so follow the manufacturer's guidance and do not install a more restrictive filter without confirming compatibility.

First, shut off your main water valve — usually located where the main line enters your home, often near the water heater or in a utility room. Then call us at (318) 319-0220. While you wait, move valuables away from the affected area and start mopping up standing water to limit damage. A burst pipe is a true emergency — we dispatch 24/7.

Hard water is tough on water heaters. A standard tank-style water heater that might last 10 to 12 years in a soft-water region often only makes it 8 to 10 years where the water is harder. Tankless units last longer — 15 to 20 years with proper maintenance. Annual flushing to remove sediment is the single biggest factor in extending water heater life.

Hard water carries dissolved minerals well above the 60 ppm threshold for "soft" water. Hard water leaves scale deposits on fixtures, reduces soap lather, dries skin and hair, and shortens the life of appliances like water heaters and dishwashers. A whole-home water softener is the most effective fix. We also install reverse osmosis systems for drinking water.

Every 18 to 24 months for most homes, more frequently if you have older cast iron or clay sewer lines, trees near your lateral, or a history of backups. A professional cleaning with a motorized snake or hydro jet clears buildup before it becomes a blockage. We also offer preventive maintenance plans that include annual drain cleaning.

If you've had repeated backups, slow drains across multiple fixtures, sewer gas odors, or if you're buying an older home (pre-1980s), a camera inspection is well worth what it costs. We feed a high-def camera through your sewer line and record the footage so you can see exactly what's going on — cracks, bellies, root intrusion, offsets, or full collapses.

A repipe replaces the galvanized, polybutylene, or failing copper piping in your home with modern PEX or copper. Typical projects run 2 to 5 days, require drywall repair in select spots, and are priced by home size and material choice. We provide a detailed written quote after an on-site assessment and handle all permits.

Most residential sewer lateral replacements run 1 to 3 days start to finish — excavation, pipe replacement, backfill, and tamping. Trenchless methods often wrap in a single day. Restoration (concrete, sod, sprinkler repair) can add another day or two. We pull permits ahead of time so the actual work isn't delayed once we break ground.